Hot springs in the Azores: Furnas, Caldeira Velha, Ferraria, Carapacho

Volcanic heat lies close to the surface in the Azores, and islanders have been bathing in its mineral springs since the sixteenth century. São Miguel has the most choice, from garden pools in Furnas to a pool in the open ocean, while Graciosa has a quiet spa by the sea. Here is where to go and what to expect.

Furnas: Terra Nostra and Poça da Dona Beija

The valley of Furnas, in the east of São Miguel, is the island's hot-water capital. In the botanical garden of Parque Terra Nostra, a large pool holds water at 38 to 42 °C, coloured a deep orange by iron and other minerals. Smaller jacuzzis sit beside it. The park asks bathers to shower before and after, not to dive, and to stay in the hot water for no more than 30 minutes at a time.

On the edge of the village, Poça da Dona Beija has several pools at around 39 °C set among ferns and trees. It stays open into the evening and opens in the rain too, when a hot soak feels even better. Tickets are sold online only and each one allows a stay of up to an hour and a half, so book ahead in busy months.

Caldeira Velha

On the forested north slope of the Fogo volcano, near Lagoa do Fogo, the Caldeira Velha Natural Monument has an iron-rich spring of around 32 °C, a pool below the waterfall at about 25 to 28 °C, and lower pools heated by a fumarole to about 38 °C. An interpretation centre explains the volcanic origins of the area. Opening hours change with the seasons, so check the official listing before you go.

Ponta da Ferraria: a hot spring in the sea

At Ponta da Ferraria, on the far west coast of São Miguel, hot water seeps into a rocky inlet in the ocean. As the official trail leaflet notes, the water can be above 30 °C around low tide, when the hot spring is less diluted by the sea. At high tide it is much cooler, and in rough weather the waves make it dangerous. Check the tide times before you go and never get in when waves are breaking into the inlet. A thermal spa building also stands at Ferraria.

Termas do Carapacho, Graciosa

On Graciosa, the Termas do Carapacho in the parish of Luz use mineral water at 35 to 40 °C for baths and spa treatments. It is a calmer, more traditional spa than the busy pools of Furnas.

Practical tips and safety

• Wear a dark swimsuit. Iron-rich water can stain light fabrics for good. Rinse your swimwear before it dries.
• Protect hair and jewellery. Blonde or dyed hair, nails and silver can change colour; a swim cap helps.
• Take it slowly. Hot water is not advised for people with heart conditions or high blood pressure, and pregnant visitors should ask a doctor first.
• Respect the volcano. Furnas sits inside an active volcanic system that releases carbon dioxide from the ground. The gas is heavier than air and can collect in hollows, cellars and enclosed spaces, so stay on marked paths around fumaroles and do not climb into pits or holes.